Oh okay, gotcha.

-Alex

Because right now I have 2 readouts on my car, fuel and water temp. That's it. I'd like to at least have a watchful eye on the other 2, plus it doesn't give me a big empty space in the center of the gauge cluster.

What mine looks like (but a 160 speedo) -
http://images.thecarconnection.com/l...00248421_l.jpg

What I want -
http://images.thecarconnection.com/l...00318273_l.jpg

Oh okay, I see why then.

-Alex

What???

I'm wanting to add oil pressure (good measure of lower end health and/or indicator of oiling issues), voltage (battery/charging system health), and oil temp (mostly just because - would only expect any question on extended high power runs like track days). I'm thinking the Laguna Seca Pod would be better choice than A-pillar mounts. I like analog, so not wanting the digital multigage route.

The factory GT gauges are just there for show. The only gauges that are functional are the tach, speedo and fuel level.

-Alex

Why not an aero force gauge and a roush vent pod.
Like so

I hate the base gauges, the six dial is so much better looking.





That looks really good. I want the dual aeroforces, but I'll still have that empty space where the other two oem gauges would be.

Because I still then have that empty space in the gauge cluster. Haha

The aero force will come around when I go boost.

LOL

Find it hard to believe that water temp is nonfunctional.

Not completely nonfunctional, but more of a dummy gauge. It will turn to hot when thw car hits 250 or so, but thats a computer generated number based on an average of cylinder head temp and coolant temp, and it will probably jump like a standard gauge would with an air pocket trapped in the cooling system.

Tell me how functional it is, when you can't tell if you are overheating. The water temp reaches the "normal" position in about 1 minute. That's unrealistic unless regular operating temp is around 160F and never moves from that position in stop-and-go traffic, parked, or any other situation in which you know your temp is changing. The oil pressure should change as rpms change. It stays exactly the same no matter if you are idling or redlining. Voltmeter doesn't really matter.

-Alex

Are you aware how the thermostat and fan control works to maintain a fairly constant temp?

Here's a pretty good example of an overheating engine:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps840a02ae.jpg

The boy didn't notice anything wrong until the idiot light came on. Had he done so, he could have pulled over to check it out, and would have noticed that the radiator split and was puking coolant out at a tremendous rate.


Sort of. Once the oil pressure gets up to the relief setting, it bypasses rest from there it will be essentially the same pressure.

Same pickup in the overheat picture is an older chevy. With 200K miles on the clock, it doesn't maintain solid oil pressure. When fully warmed up, it doesn't maintain "normal" oil pressure at idle and very low rpms. Obviously the clearance in the bearings and such have opened up somewhat and/or the oil pump doesn't put out the same volume it used to and/or the relief spring has softened up slightly. Its not so bad that I'm going to rebuild it, but I'm not planning on getting another 200K miles.

it sure does when the alternator quits putting out a sufficient charge. I'd sure like to have a gauge to warn me that I'm fixing to have a problem.

Are you aware that the engine water temps are not at the same temperature 100% of the time? It would be nice for a $40k car to have gauges that let you know the precise engine temparature not as you put it "fairly constant temp." If these gauges were sufficient, then why don't you see such ambiguous gauges in racing applications?

Here's a pretty good example of an overheating engine:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps840a02ae.jpg

I can't see that picture from my work computer but, it does prove my point. If the gauges would have been accurately reading a precise temperature, then anyone driving, that pays attention to the gauges cluster would have noticed the temperature beginning to rise, pulled over and greatly reduced engine damage.


I've yet to see any car where the oil pressure stays the same at idle as it does at redline. Please explain further how you think this is possible.


Wouldn't you like that with more important readings like oil pressure and water temp? How much is an alternator versus a rebuilt engine again?

-Alex

There's plenty of room on the steering column to mount an Aeroforce gauge in a pod centered between the Speedo and Tach. You'd still see the upper two gauges just fine also. With a little finagling you might could even find a way to mount it up in that gap between the two since it's only 2 1/16" in diameter.