Originally Posted by txcharlie (Post 33450)

My car runs a TVS2300 and puts out 673/617 at the wheels. I agree with most of the comments, but will add one thought.....Don't skimp on the fuel upgrades. A lack of fuel can cause your boosted engine to give up the ghost. I started with 71lb. injectors and a BAP. I just ordered the JPC return fuel system to make sure I have plenty of fuel for any boost level. You will need fuel upgrades if you use E85 as the volume of fuel used is higher than petro.
I've been running the TVS for almost a year with no issues. MT-82, stock clutch, DS and street tires. The moment you bolt on drag radials or slicks, the game changes and your likelihood of breaking stuff goes way up.
There is no such thing as a budget build whether using a turbo, roots, or centrifugal. One upgrade always requires another and another and so on. Just be prepared to spend way more than you planned.
I choose the TVS for it's simplicity, reliability and they seem to make more torque than the KB or centrifugal.
Good luck in your build!! :peace:

Originally Posted by Steve (Post 33458)

Is that on the stock longblock and internals?

Originally Posted by txcharlie (Post 33450)

My car runs a TVS2300 and puts out 673/617 at the wheels. I agree with most of the comments, but will add one thought.....Don't skimp on the fuel upgrades. A lack of fuel can cause your boosted engine to give up the ghost. I started with 71lb. injectors and a BAP. I just ordered the JPC return fuel system to make sure I have plenty of fuel for any boost level. You will need fuel upgrades if you use E85 as the volume of fuel used is higher than petro.
I've been running the TVS for almost a year with no issues. MT-82, stock clutch, DS and street tires. The moment you bolt on drag radials or slicks, the game changes and your likelihood of breaking stuff goes way up.
There is no such thing as a budget build whether using a turbo, roots, or centrifugal. One upgrade always requires another and another and so on. Just be prepared to spend way more than you planned.
I choose the TVS for it's simplicity, reliability and they seem to make more torque than the KB or centrifugal.
Good luck in your build!! :peace:

Originally Posted by 5PointSlow (Post 33654)

What size pulley? I've been considering pulleying mine done to a 79 or 75 from the 82. I have the injectors and bap for it. I know that the 75 ill run out of fuel on E85 but should be good on 93. Not sure though if I want to do that or just go built as swap to a 2.9 whipple.

Originally Posted by Steve (Post 33061)

Making a car live for a long time comes down to a few things, proper maintence, not beating the snot out of it at every opportunity and the tune itself. A bad tune can kill the most badass super built racecar motors just as easily as a stock motor. A rough driver can also cause alot of damage with constant abuse.

When talking about stress on engine/drivetrain components and which type of boost is the best for it, there is no doubt what so ever that turbos are best way to go. It's the most efficient setup and least stressful because it's making power on already spent energy, there is no belts creating parasitic load etc.

Roots style blowers and centri blowers are stressful on a motor putting a lot of heat into a motor, a blower that takes power from the motor in order to turn it to make boost and also puts a lot of stress on the front of the crank pulling on it all the time. The smaller the pulley, the tighter the belt it requires therefor putting even more stress on the crank.

Example, my buddy Jeremy runs a 3.4 Whipple on his Cobra with a fully built motor including a forged crank and still managed to snap off the crank snout with the balancer still attached right off the front of the block. So, depending on what set up you are running, a stock 5.0 crank is no match for a big roots style blower if you are going to beat on it all the time and hopefully you don't trash the block in the process.

Turbos have none of those issues. It makes power from already used energy, no belts stealing power from the motor. Does not shock the motor/drivetrain as violently as blowers because the power comes in more linear rather than when you downshift a blower car and BOOM, it hits hard pulling on the rotating assembly instantly. Over time, it causes quite abit of stress and damage even to the most civlized drivers.

Yes, you can make a car live a long time, but it's all in how you treat it. Which is why you hear so many varying stories about a car breaking at 550rw or 750rw. Chances are those drivers treat their cars very differently or one had a better tune than the other.

Originally Posted by Steve (Post 33064)

Turbo cars tend to be broke more often for some people because they are very easy to get greedy with. More power is as simple as a button push away. Also, the people "eating clutches" are usually brake boosting the shit out of them which yes, will eat clutches when you are brake boosting a car at 50-60mph at 15-20psi instantly putting 600-700ft lbs of torque into the clutch. DUH. lol. But if you drive it like a quasi-normal person it will last just as long as any other application. Again, it's in how you treat it.

With a blower car it's abit harder to get greedy having to take the belt off, switch pulleys, change the tune etc.

Turbo cars are also very, very addicting because of the power they make. The torque is usually very close to the HP numbers in a street car application.

With a roots style blower (whipple, kennebell, tvs, maggie etc) it's instant boost/torque, it makes its power and levels off on a nice flat curve. So when you get there it pulls hard at first, then kinda feels like it stops pulling.

A Centri blower (Vortech, Paxton or Procharger) it makes less torque and builds boost with RPM making better peak power, but less torque.

A turbo makes massive torque instantly and feels like it will never stop pulling. Getting the right setup is crucial for depending on how you plan to use it. (Spool time, bigger, smaller etc) A good, quality kit isn't going to be cheap, but you get what you pay for especially when it comes to turbo kits.

Originally Posted by txcharlie (Post 34243)

It's a 75mm. I run the 90mm to be safe until I build the block. After it's built, I plan on going to a 69mm, OD crank pulley and 72mm TB. Should be good for 750+ at the wheels. If that's not enough, then I'll go with a bigger blower.
Honestly for a street car, can anyone use more the 550-600 at the wheels? But it sure is fun having the extra HP :ROFLJest:

Originally Posted by Dan12GT (Post 34601)

Damn.. you make me want to go roots blower instead of centrifugal when I do in the future!

Originally Posted by re-rx7 (Post 34249)

Your forgetting one crucial detail. HEAT! Turbos produce a ton of heat. Turbo blankets, vented hood are all required IMO. Also turbos are a bitch to track down boost leaks. With so many couplers and clamps it can be quite the chore.

Originally Posted by Dan12GT (Post 34601)

Damn.. you make me want to go roots blower instead of centrifugal when I do in the future!

Originally Posted by Luke (Post 34674)

Other than JPC and Hellion, has anyone seen any single turbo kits available?