All I think about when I see this picture!

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps27e696e0.jpg


http://img.pandawhale.com/73809-fat-...ly-gi-Nw9T.gif

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...34675733_n.jpg

This is the picture I think of actually when I saw that picture.

Actually though, the guy driving that car is a legitimate driver competing in NASA classes. Plus the car is a fully build race car with some type of motor swap. That session was during the Free-For-All hour at the end of the day which allowed every driving class to be on the track at the same time. Passing rules were "anywhere you can make it with a point by."

Anything in the twisties he had a huge advantage with driver skill, weight, brakes, and tires (he had slicks and I was on summer-only street tires). On the straights though I would of course dominate. Looking at lap times, he would still best me by a little this event. I imagine in time I would surpass him, but in the end that car/driver combo was good.

Nice. I do like your homemade ramps. Was looking into ramps but damn they are expensive.

They work great and only cost me about $25 in wood and glue. Home Depot did all the cutting for me. Serve a dual purpose as I can use them to get on and off the trailer and also to work on the car itself.

I'd like to see the splitter struts a little more vertical to be more effective and lower stress, but it should work as long as the mounts are solid enough.

Nice pics. I love the gold rims. How much does the brake dust show? I went with silver track wheels and that was a mistake. They look like ass with brake dust, and the Hawk pads generate a bunch.

Truth in the turnbuckles. Placement like that is difficult unless you are willing to drill through bumpers to achieve optimal angles. Where they are at now though is really sold as they are connected to my tow point bracket/frame. These things don't move at all and I can still adjust the length on them.

Everyone gives me compliments on the wheels, not bad for spray paint and $200 GT500 take-offs. I don't have a picture, but the dust is pretty bad on my wheels. Almost black on some of the areas. Can't avoid it once you go with these aggressive pads on the track. Just part of the game I guess.

Well, on the 50th Anniversary I got my Boss 302S grille in from a track buddy. He told me it was pretty much new and that I could have it for $200. As long as it wasn't damaged, i was fine with it. As I cut the factory plastic off I realized that this thing is brand spanking new, so it was a hell of a deal. Hopefully this will help with improve the airflow to that radiator!

Before:
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psb128db19.jpg

After:
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psf421a26c.jpg

If somebody needs or wants my original grille or fog lights, let me know. I will let them go for cheap.

Looks great! So much better without the red pony in the middle.

That looks great!!

I like the silver in the lower valence. What is it?

I actually liked the red pony, especially on the track where it would stick out from the rest if the Muatang pack (either chrome stock or the oh-so-common blacked out pony.

Thanks!

JLT Brake Duct kit. Outside of making one yourself, they are the cheapest on the market.

Radiator finally installed, leaving a little chrome now under the hood. Forced me to change some things under the hood, but everything seems to be working right. Also got my Peterson catch can installed.

Will get some pictures tomorrow, especially if I make the dyno run.

So, made two sessions of TWS before the car called it quits. The first time, the stability control kept getting in the way as I thought I turned it off but it was partially on. Wasn't able to test the cooling capabilities as I was only able to go about 60% as high speed cornering is not fun with nannies on.

The second run I was able to go all out, improving my fastest lap time at TWS to a 2:07. Downside, still overheating and went into limp mode at the 20 minute point. Came back into the pits and car was running real rich. Reflashed the computer and then through another general misfire code, along with cylinders 6 & 8. Last time this happened it was the crankshaft position sensor needing to be reset. Vehicle runs like shit during that time so I wasn't risking it.

So, besides lighting a pile of money on fire, I think this idea of a supercharged road race car is a failure. I believe it is possible with the right funding, but I don't have that money. So instead of throwing more at it, I am going to remove the ProCharger. It's a great kit, great power, and performed well on the street and strip. Heck, with the larger radiator my internal temps were amazing. However, keeping an engine above 5000 rpm with a blower on it for 20+ minutes is actually slowing me down from progressing.

Future plans now. Staying naturally aspirated, going with a Cobra Jet manifold, switching from 3.31's to a 3.73 rear end, going to run E85, and probably going to an OR X pipe. That way I can still have a leg up on stock-ish 5.0s, but still be able to keep internal temps on over time. So if y'all are interested in a P1SC Stage 2 tuner kit with about 4000 miles on the track and street (I have an extra SCT tuner that isn't married), let me know. It's still on the car, but I maybe willing to let it go to a member for a better price.

I want to try that quiet bypass valve atleast once lol. Plus side is HEB E85 is still testing higher, E90 yesterday

Are you still running the stock fan?

I don't know what to say, sucks to ditch the big power, but kind of confirms I'm on the right path. My only engine mod is a K&N filter and axlebacks. LOL.
I was curious where you were headed as the big power would seem to put even more strain on the brakes and tires and the rest of the drivetrain.

IF I ever go hardcore, it will be to take weight out of the car and stay with mild(reliable) engine. Low weight just can't be overstated. Coyote in a light car would rock, e.g. a boss crate motor in something sub 3K lbs would be a killer combo.

I could get a better fan, but I have lost faith in cheaper modifications that will help this issue. The car is completely fine on the street or strip even before I change things in effort of cooling. But in my opinion it won't be worth the money.

I think big power can be had with these cars and survive the track. I am just nit willing to throw the $$$ at it in order to make it happen. If I were to go SC over again, I would try a VMP kit as they built it for open lapping so maybe it would perform better. But after experiencing it, I will cut my loses and go with what will work...not what may work.

I am not bitter about my decision, I tried it and loved this procharger. Heck, I wish I was a drag racer or a "show queen car" as this kit would be perfect for those applications. But for open lapping, it just isn't working for me. For the NA setup I am going for, 450 RWHP is definately doable.

So, made the decision today for sure to go natural aspirated again. Ordered from Tasca Parts, Cobra Jet Intake, FRPP Cobra Jet CAI, 3.73 Geara, and 2013 Stock GT500 Twin 60mm throttle body with associated install kits. Soon I will begin to start taking off the ProCharger which I will be looking to sell (minus the injectors) as basically a tuner kit. Shame I only put about 5k miles on the kit, but it just isn't going to work for the road course.

So, the build continues...just have to look for an off road H/X pipe for cheap.

I have a used lethal offroad h in the garage that I'm about to put up for sale

Ah, I picked one up cheap yesterday getting shipped to me. I know you didn't like the sound, but you were running it without mufflers right?

I have a Borla S Types on my car currently, which I know this setup will be loud. Eventually once I get it all put together I will probably go to a cheaper GT500 muffler to quiet it down.

I ran it without mufflers and with stock mufflers. Without mufflers I loved the sound but around 2000 rpm it would drone while accelerating, and around 80 it would drone for me also. Other than that it was fine.

With stock mufflers, it wasn't much louder than with cats.

That's good to know. I know that the O/R X and H pipes both increase the loudness of the exhaust system (which I am not entirely going for) which is why I will be eventually taking off my Borla S-Types. Granted, I will drive it around and be obnoxious for a little until I get tired of the constant noise. Once that happens, I will grab a set of GT500's to quiet the girl down a little.

If you want to go O/R midpipe, but stay quiet, GT500s or factory axlebacks will be your best bet, while replacing the factory resonators with a 3" bullet style muffler

Here is my setup.

Thanks for the sound clips. I have had a long tube header with o/r pipe before and it lasted about a week before I couldn't take it. I just want the extra power bump since I'm taking the procharger off. NA I will need every cheap power adder I can get, but I don't want to make the car unbearable to drive. To me, the only choice is GT500.

Look for a set of the mini cobra jet cams. Full VCT adjustment and a good bump in TQ

Saw you over by Jason's deli earlier. Looks really good in person

Yeah, that was after a faithful visit to the Ford Dealer. Blew a couple rings in CYL 7 & 8, so another rebuild is on the way for this guy. I create too much heat on the road course, short bursts and daily driving this thing is a dream, but for what I do forced injection isn't easy to make liveable.

Cars going into the shop to remove the ProCharger, add the CJ Intake Manifold, Boss 302S Air-to-Oil Oil Cooler, new radiator fan, and some 3.73's in order to make the NA setup easier to deal with on the road course. Will be loosing and missing the top speed capability of the SC, but I am looking for reliability over the long term.

Yikes!!!

Dang man. That sucks to hear, but hopefully this will be the final one. Haha.

Have you thought about trying to find some of the mini cobra jet cams and mayb do TSS Billet oil pump gears while it's apart?

Yeah, this time blowing the engine was my fault. I ran it on the track, was flirting the line with the cylinder dead temps trying to balance the performance/overheating line. Moments later, I saw the gauge pegged and I immediately started to cool down. Too late, smoke coming out the rear. I am hoping the last time too. If I didn't have so much money in this car I probably would have fixed it and traded it in on a Camaro 1LE and called it a day. Replace the oil pump with some billet gears and that LS is good to go.

Sorry to hear about your luck. Unfortunately, these Coyote motors just don't like a lot of power. Anyone making over 550rw should be planning for a motor build. It's not IF it breaks, but when. And even with a built motor, the blocks are still very questionable at best. For big power, these cars need a very expensive full build up.

People have held the blocks to 1000hp levels without much issue.

Just because a few people have made 1xxxhp for a couple of dyno pulls and then turn them back down for normal driving conditions doesn't prove anything. Kevin and I spoke with a couple of Ford engineers at SEMA about this and they admit the factory block isn't up to the task over anything 550rw+.

The fact is, the blocks are not up to the task of that much power on a regular basis and many, many people breaking them at 600rw on a normal basis only further proves that point. And honestly, it shouldn't be up to that because it wasn't designed for that, it's just that us car guys push the limits of our factory set ups beyond their designed for limits.

The motors are very light, very efficient, making great power for only 302 cubic inches. They are great for N/A sub 550rw power, no doubt about that. But anything more than that you are asking for a blown motor.

Are we talking the actual block or the internals? The internals are the weak spot that I have seen.

Both are weak really. Well, I mean that relatively. Don't get me wrong, it's a great high winding lil motor. I just mean that it's not the best choice if you're wanting to make big power. If you're happy with 550rw or less for a toy, then a stock motor'd 5.0 is fine. But, if you're wanting to go fast, a motor build is in your future with a sleeved block at the minimum. Hopefully at some point someone makes an aftermarket block that is able to handle big power because what is out there now is still breaking the same way factory blocks are.

I guess I haven't really seen to block failures, just when people throw a rod, melt or shatter a piston. I completely agree with it eventually being on borrowed time, but I guess it seems you are exaggerating (from my view point) that time period to be rather quick, when in fact people have been running those high horsepower (500-600) applications for years now. VMP with their Boss, for example. 7xx whp and it's been through multiple track days in Texas and Florida heat.

I know the only true aftermarket option out there for a "high" power motor is MMR's Promod block, of which some people are still skeptical of their stuff sometimes. But it's been filled, sleeved, and decked completely, so I'd hope it holds. lol

I'm not exaggerating. I guess in your world, if you don't see it, it doesn't happen? I've seen several failures, but then again I'm around a lot of cars making real power and you're not.

Your viewpoint comes from a slow stock car, you don't race, never had a fast car and take everything you read online as facts. Before you do your usual kneejerk sensitive reaction, that's not a dig at you, just the facts. Get out and do some racing, you will see the failures happening. Most people only post the positives online to brag, but the failures rarely make it because of all the bashing that takes place. Failures happen, it's part of racing. Not a big deal.

Again, just because a car "can" make 600-700rw, doesn't mean it's going to last. Any Coyote out there making 550rw+, especially in power adder applications, are on borrowed time. Hell, that's normal tactic of some companies out there - turn it up for one Hail Mary dyno pull, make a number, inflate and tell everyone some stupid outrageous claim. "1000hp on stock motor!!" LOL, I'm sure it did...but not very many times and/or very long. hahaha.

Crimson's 2013 Boy Racer GT
 

I'm just speaking from what I've been able to gather online with forums and through other individuals. SVTP has quite a few blown motors posted there, but majority of those are always internal failures and not the block, at least the ones I have seen. You are right that you have probably seen more than I have. But I didn't say that they don't exist because I haven't seen any. Just saying I haven't seen any.

However, I disagree with the statement I take everything online as facts. I just restate what I have read and gathered online myself and what others have told me. If it's wrong, it's wrong. Someone will correct me and I will learn something new.

If I took everything online as facts, my car would have 12 electric turbochargers in my intake along with 6 stacked switch chips from Jet and a throttle body spacer. :p

Ain't that the damn truth!