Sorry to hear that man.

I say build it, especially since you plan on keeping it a while.

Or, patch it up and part it out, then sell it and buy another one.

LMAO....I'm not laughing at you but I'm laughing at your last post and the Guinea pig comment definitely fulfilling itself.

It does suck to hear, I was hoping it was good news. So this means no Texas Mile?

I don't know if I will be able to make the mile or not. If I okay the work right away, basically have two months to get the car going and ready. Any thoughts of buying a trailer to tow it down there are now out of the question. Look like I will start selling all the stock parts I have for the cars for scrap or something to get money back. Pinching pennies now.

I've put about $11K into the car know and if I build it, that will settle that number closer to the $15K mark. No way I am going to get rid of the car now. I run it and rebuild it. Rip out the interior and put a full cage in it ten years from now and make it a dedicated race/track car if I have too.

Bummer man. Unfortunately, I'm about 95% sure you won't be able to just put another piston in it and go. When the ring lands go, they tend to take the cylinder bore with them. You might get lucky. Or, you might be able to get a sleeved block that will allow you to use the stock pistons.

Either way, I feel your pain. These 5.0s are real fun right up til they get punched in the glass jaw.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ps45a14d0a.jpg

Bummer, but now you know what you are facing.

so this dreaded cylinder 8 thing... 2010 mustang gts and up? or only if you do certain mods to them or?

That's extremely scary. Very low mileage on vehicle and how long it was actually supercharged. Scares me to drop the money next month on one. I know the whole gotta pay to play. But eeek.

This is not the regular cylinder #8 issue. This is a different problem. The scope revealed a black piston head, which means it was running rich. If it were blued or discolored that would be a sign of running lean, combine with heat would be a tune issue in my experience. It's definitely a head scratcher right now until we dive into the block.

I would say be aware that you are going to lose your warranty, unless you get an FRPP kit and have ford install it. But you will pay a ton of money, probably what I will pay to buy the kit, put it on, then forge the internals. If you want to boost, do it.

Best course of action, trade in and get a 13+ GT500 lol

Well, gave a call to ProCharger today and ran the details by them. Based on everything, they think it is a freak anomoly too. And they won't be able to help me until they get more information. So basically tear down the engine and see what fully went wrong. They don't believe the SC is the problem, just like I thought too. To me, all signs point to an error in the casting of the piston, which Ford will probably not own up to. ProCharger just wants more details, so it looks like this is going to be all out of pocket.

Anychance it may have been blowby afterall coupled with running rich? That would, to me, explain a little more of the black on the piston, burning oil.

I don't want this to come off bad, but if you have those JLT brake ducts removed, I will gladly buy them to help fund the new motor goodies.

I say go ahead and build it as well. Contact JPC Racing or any of the other big time shops and see what rods and pistons they recommend in their builds.

Haha, I appreciate the willing to help me fund the rebuild by parting out my current car :ROFLJest: I already started prepping the bank account by scouring my house for spare change and selling off all the stock parts that no one wants to buy for scrap metal. Doesn't seem like much, but stock cats go for $35 a piece (leftovers from my 2013 V6) and change goes along way. 1/5th of the way there buy doing that.

If it were a blowby issue, there would be some oil also on the spark plug right? This is just from my research, but I think some Mustangs in the past that had misfires like this due to blowby would have oil on the spark plug preventing detonation. Pictures will come in time once we tear this puppy down. My only thing is I have to work quickly as I will be heading to NTC in California by the end of this week for a month with no phone. So I basically have to work quickly and hope that ProCharger will work with my shop if they are able to help me.

At this point, it is going to be forged rods and pistons as long as nothing else is damage. Upgrade the oil pump to a billet setup and call it a day. With the power levels I plan on running (no more than really what I have now), this setup with the stock crank will be able to and that safely. Most likely will go with an MMR setup as they have the best prices.

Oil blowby, if serious enough, can cause detonation. The presence of oil lowers the octane of the fuel.
In addition, although it is rare, detonation can also be caused by rich conditions in the cylinder. But it is usually more common under lean conditions.

good luck on everything bro

Only way ProCharger is going to warranty anything is if the kit or tune cause the failure. Which I am thinking proving the rich condition caused this is going to be hard. I didn't know that could do so, but I should find out more details by the middle of this week.

Appreciate it. All the other 5.0s in my area that I know I have been keeping in contact with also since I maybe the first to go forged internals. Seems like I am the guinea pig for this experiment.

Make sure to get the Triangle Speed Shop billet gears. Best on the market.

Does FRPP have a forged shortblock for the Coyote 5.0?

I will have to look into them. I was planning on going through MMR for everything, but if there is something that much better out there I will check it out.

That's not good at all

Well, I got the word back today. Turns out my inclinations of a bad casting were substantiated. There were irregular casting marks in the metal of the piston, indicting a weak spot in the piston itself. It was only a matter of time, given the SC & the higher run temps in cylinder #8 accelerated the catastrophic failure. Everything else pertaining to the block were still fine, so right now it's just a replacement piston and rod bearing. That has my wallet feeling much better than having to dish out the dough for a forged setup that is really not needed for the power levels (575 RWHP) that I will be staying at.

For future peace of kind, I will be having the head cooling mod and probably billet oil pump gears while the block is torn apart. After it's all back together we will check the compression to make sure everything is in specs. But it looks like I will be saving about $1500 & will have the car running in about a week after everything comes back in.

Today has been a good day.

Sound like a QC issue with the piston.

Most likely. Who knows that piston may have held up if it was in a different cylinder besides #8. Things like this can happen in engineering for the masses like Ford. Hard to QC ever single part. Just wished this would have happened before the SC so it would be on Ford's dime instead of mine.

The guys at procharger were interested in then outcome too, they were stumped with what could be the problem. People were quick to blame tuners, but CTP is a great shop and Jeff is an awesome tuner. In my mind, all signs pointed to a metallurgy issue and I am glad that that was the problem and it didn't cause further damage. Now I can get back to building this car to run the Texas Mile :favorites25:

Got to see the piston today. There was a chunk about 1.5" long just missing from the piston itself. Looking at the piston, you can see wavy lines (almost like wood grain) in the pattern of the break. The head was sent to a machine shop just for verification, looks like I will need at least one valve which isn't too bad. Once I get back from training in a month, I'll have pictures of everything and hopefully a running car.

Got to look at the block and everything, all the other pistons look great and the engine was running smoothly for the first 13000 miles. All signs definitely point at the failure in casting.

That's awesome glad it was something simple. Now you can get that catch can to get rid of that blow by

So no scoring or gouging of the cylinder wall?

I'll let you be the guinea pig for once on something. Once I get back I'll be sure to check that system out along with how it performs.

There doesn't appear to be any which is a stroke if luck. Eiter I got lucky and that piston piece went out the valve opening at the right moment or the metal disintegrated and left the engine. Surprising on no damage other than maybe one valve, but the block, cylinder walls, crank, & everything were fine. Even the ring was in perfect shape that normally melts...this is why all signs pointed to a bad part.

Either way, putting an MMR head cooling kit on to help cooling in the future. Now I can get back to looking for a car hauler/trailer and new tires for the upcoming race season/Texas Mile.

Well, everything is back to normal now. All that was required was a new piston, new ring, and one valve. Compression is good, car dyno'd with similar results before catastrophic failure, and most importantly back in my garage getting final touches put on before the TX Mile.

I wish that this would have happened before I put the SC on, because it would have been completely under warranty by Ford. But this is the price we pay for modifying our cars. Either way, I am happy again...even though my wallet is a little lighter.

At least it was only 1 piston and accessories and not 8...Glad the car is back home though.

The exact feeling I had. My power levels were completely fine on stock internals, so I am glad that I didn't have to change all 8 with a forged set up. That money saved allowed me to put the down payment on the car trailer I just purchased.

Cool beans. Good luck at the TX mile.

You describe wavy lines. Any chance you could post a pic? Sounds like it might be fatigue crack propagation "beach marks" I.e. like waves in the sand, each cycle move the crack a little farther. You can trace back the initiation point where the lines are the closest. Final fracture will be one final progression

Also, the initiation will typically be darker, and the final fracture the lightest or brightest

I don't have a picture of the piston itself right now. It was as you described though, like waves all coming from the base of the piston near one of the rings. Most likely the cylinder was hot enough where the ring closed the gap and there goes the piston. Once I get my hands on the piston, I'll be sure to check it out.

Last thing I have to do actually is a crank position relearn that has to be done at the Ford Dealer. Started throwing random misfires above 3K RPM. Something I didn't know had to happen and my mechanic forgot about. No big deal, appointment scheduled tomorrow morning because a Ford Dealer's IDS tool is the only thing that can do this. Too bad I have to return it to stock tune before they can do this procedure. Looks like my car will run shitty from the parking lot until they do this relearn procedure. Then I can return my custom tunes back on once they are done.

Getting closer every day to having my car fully back.

Good luck man, so the Ford dealership will warrant fixing the part even knowing that the tune was altered?

-Alex

Oh no, they are doing anything as far as warranty work. This was done all with my rainy day fund and then some. This issue crankshaft position sensor relearn just has to be done with a Ford Dealer. They already told me that their time is worth whatever their hourly rate was. Which I responded with they will only be doing what I tell them to do then, no diagnostics or anything. I have to run the car with the supercharger on it on a completely stock tune for them to do this relearn, so I don't want them driving/running it anymore than they need to.