I ran it without mufflers and with stock mufflers. Without mufflers I loved the sound but around 2000 rpm it would drone while accelerating, and around 80 it would drone for me also. Other than that it was fine.

With stock mufflers, it wasn't much louder than with cats.

That's good to know. I know that the O/R X and H pipes both increase the loudness of the exhaust system (which I am not entirely going for) which is why I will be eventually taking off my Borla S-Types. Granted, I will drive it around and be obnoxious for a little until I get tired of the constant noise. Once that happens, I will grab a set of GT500's to quiet the girl down a little.

If you want to go O/R midpipe, but stay quiet, GT500s or factory axlebacks will be your best bet, while replacing the factory resonators with a 3" bullet style muffler

Here is my setup.

Thanks for the sound clips. I have had a long tube header with o/r pipe before and it lasted about a week before I couldn't take it. I just want the extra power bump since I'm taking the procharger off. NA I will need every cheap power adder I can get, but I don't want to make the car unbearable to drive. To me, the only choice is GT500.

Look for a set of the mini cobra jet cams. Full VCT adjustment and a good bump in TQ

Saw you over by Jason's deli earlier. Looks really good in person

Yeah, that was after a faithful visit to the Ford Dealer. Blew a couple rings in CYL 7 & 8, so another rebuild is on the way for this guy. I create too much heat on the road course, short bursts and daily driving this thing is a dream, but for what I do forced injection isn't easy to make liveable.

Cars going into the shop to remove the ProCharger, add the CJ Intake Manifold, Boss 302S Air-to-Oil Oil Cooler, new radiator fan, and some 3.73's in order to make the NA setup easier to deal with on the road course. Will be loosing and missing the top speed capability of the SC, but I am looking for reliability over the long term.

Yikes!!!

Dang man. That sucks to hear, but hopefully this will be the final one. Haha.

Have you thought about trying to find some of the mini cobra jet cams and mayb do TSS Billet oil pump gears while it's apart?

Yeah, this time blowing the engine was my fault. I ran it on the track, was flirting the line with the cylinder dead temps trying to balance the performance/overheating line. Moments later, I saw the gauge pegged and I immediately started to cool down. Too late, smoke coming out the rear. I am hoping the last time too. If I didn't have so much money in this car I probably would have fixed it and traded it in on a Camaro 1LE and called it a day. Replace the oil pump with some billet gears and that LS is good to go.

Sorry to hear about your luck. Unfortunately, these Coyote motors just don't like a lot of power. Anyone making over 550rw should be planning for a motor build. It's not IF it breaks, but when. And even with a built motor, the blocks are still very questionable at best. For big power, these cars need a very expensive full build up.

People have held the blocks to 1000hp levels without much issue.

Just because a few people have made 1xxxhp for a couple of dyno pulls and then turn them back down for normal driving conditions doesn't prove anything. Kevin and I spoke with a couple of Ford engineers at SEMA about this and they admit the factory block isn't up to the task over anything 550rw+.

The fact is, the blocks are not up to the task of that much power on a regular basis and many, many people breaking them at 600rw on a normal basis only further proves that point. And honestly, it shouldn't be up to that because it wasn't designed for that, it's just that us car guys push the limits of our factory set ups beyond their designed for limits.

The motors are very light, very efficient, making great power for only 302 cubic inches. They are great for N/A sub 550rw power, no doubt about that. But anything more than that you are asking for a blown motor.

Are we talking the actual block or the internals? The internals are the weak spot that I have seen.