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Camber plate questions
Hey guys, I searched and couldn't find any answers. I have a couple questions about camber plates. I have a 2012 gt on koni str t's and steeds ultralites. I am going to order some camber plates as I just don't trust the camber bolts enough and will have some extra money in my paycheck this month.
Since I have the str t's and had to use the gt500 strut mounts do I need to get the 05-10 model camber plates? I'm thinking of the steeda hd mounts. Or are the maximum motorsports better? Steeda http://stranoparts.com/partdetails.p...224&ModelID=35 Maximum motorsports http://stranoparts.com/partdetails.p...224&ModelID=35 I just want to make sure I order the right mounts. When installing them I need to take a piece out of the gt500 mounts right? Thanks |
Don't know about the mounts, but I wouldn't buy from Strano. Seeing the way that he treats customers in the Fbody world is enough to push me away
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Thanks, I actually ordered the Koni's from him and didn't have a bad experience. I will keep that in mind though.
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Look up Vorshlag in Plano, their plates are awesome. The operative phrase here is: you get what you pay for.
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=274 |
I have the Maximum Motorsports on my car, they are made really good! Strong and durable, alignment is perfect with them. As for which year to get, you should get the ones for 11-up because your GT500 strut mounts are designed to be used for 05-up and will be compatible with caster/camber plates for the actual year of your car. And yes, you need the reuse the spring perch off the GT500 mounts.
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THanks for the advice guys. I have another question. I put the eibach camber bolts in a few months ago and since have developed a clunking sound when maneuvering around a parking lot at slow speeds, backing into and out of parking spots. Basically anywhere you are doing low speed tight turns the clunking is kind of like a stutter when the wheel turns sharp. It sounds like it is from the suspension.
So basically I am wondering if by replacing the bolts with the stock bolts and putting camber plates on will fix that. Or does that clunking sound mean something else is messed up. I was wondering if it was bad strut mounts. That is why I am thinking about the plates. |
Well there two different "clunks" that normally come with these cars.
A. The front lower control arms clunk when going over speed bumps whether lowered or not. That will be replaced free of charge under warranty. There are TSB on this. Just Google it.. B. This one I haven't figured out because it's subtle and I have it. I hear "ricket", bed spring like sound when the front compresses. It can even be done by hand if you push down hard enough. I tend think its either my GT500 strut mounts, front sway bar, or just the spring themselves compressing. I'm curious to know if the strut mount replacement fixes this sound for you because we may have the same issue. I 've been lowered for close to 2 years and put around 25K miles on it since then so everything is fine but I would like to get rid of this as well. Just my 2 cents. Does anyone know if Vorshlag does strut mount install themselves and alignments in house? |
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Mine sounds I guess not so much a clunking but multiple slight pops when making hard turns at slow speeds. It may happen at higher speeds but I can't hear anything due to the car being louder at speed. For example, when I back out of a parking spot, the front suspension will make the sounds when turning the wheel almost to lock and moving. It mainly happens when there is a change of sharp direction while moving (90 degree or sharper turn). It just started happening in the last couple months. I have been lowered for at least a year now. I have the KONI STR.T and Steeda ultralite. I have lowered my other 2 mustangs in past and never had this problem. The ONLY differences this time are the Koni's (I dont think they are the culprit), the GT500 strut Mounts, and the camber bolts. And it started after putting the camber bolts in. |
Cool got it. Your issue is different than mine. It definitely sounds like the GT500 mounts. I dont have any popping going on in the steering. Its smooth as butter
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Also my eibach camber bolts are doing fine. They haven't shifted at all. Tire wear is on point. Definitely hope you get it resolved
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I run at Eagles Canyon Raceway alot I love the easy & fast track side adjustment that adds 2.9 degrees of camber in about 5mins I'm co-organizing and instructing at Five Star Ford Track Day on Sat Sept 7th https://www.facebook.com/events/539172632784999/ come out and bring a helmet for a test ride ...or sign up for some REAL fun :-) you can also email directly @ [email protected] |
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http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Product-.../DSC0631-S.jpg http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Product-.../DSC0633-S.jpg Yes, we install S197 Vorshlag camber plates daily and can get your car a "race alignment" that'll get you going (camber and toe) until you can get a 4-wheel laser alignment. http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Product-...DSC_0704-S.jpg http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Vorshlag...8%20copy-S.jpg Remember, Vorshlag plates are modular and always come with a new upper spring perch with an integral, sealed radial bearing to isolate turning loads from the camber plate's spherical bearing. This makes our plates work with OEM diameter springs or coilovers, and the made-to-order perches are built to fit the exact shaft profile of your struts. If you switch from one strut brand and spring style to another down the road it is a simple update to keep the same camber plates. http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Instruct...DSC_8199-S.jpg http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Racing-E...DSC_7059-S.jpg Adjusting your camber track side takes seconds and is very worthwhile - lowering lap times and increasing tire wear. We can help with set-up and alignment tips on your S197 Mustang as well, since we race these cars in various motorsports formats and on many different tires. Cheers, |
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So, when I got home I decided to conduct a little experiment. I took the camber bolts out and put the OEM bolts back in. Voila! sound is gone, The bolts looked fine and were nice and tight so I am not sure what was going on but in my case the bolts were the cause of it. Well, I don't want to bash them but for whatever reason they didnt agree with my car. It very well could have been something I did wrong. |
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We've installed eccentric camber bolts for some folks that don't want to pay for camber plates, but it doesn't always end up working smoothly, as you noticed. One thing we have noted is you lose inboard tire clearance with camber bolts or "crash" bolts. You are moving the top of the tire in towards the strut, so it makes fitting wide wheels tougher. With an adjustable strut to mount (camber plate) the top of the strut moves inboard with the wheel, so no room is lost between them. http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Vorshlag..._DSC4018-S.jpg http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Vorshlag...sh-bolts-S.jpg They can also slip, which we've seen many times. Sometimes the factory "crash bolt" repair (on strut cars without any factory adjustment, which is all too common) is they simply supply a smaller diameter bolt, which is of course weaker. That's how Subaru does it on the FR-S/BRZ, shown above. We had to tighten the bejezus out of this bolt to keep it from slipping and it made me cringe... http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Projects...DSC_5532-M.jpg http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Projects...DSC_8918-M.jpg Why was yours making noise? That's a good question. I would look for marks of the wheel or tire rubbing the strut housing. Also, check the factory front swaybar endlink stud at the top, which has a super long stud that can rub the wheel. We usually trim that down to fit 18x11's under the front fenders, or replace them with Whiteline endlinks. |
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