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Old 11-15-2013, 11:28 AM   #2
El_Tortuga
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Tejas
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Originally Posted by toomnymods View Post
I've ordered a ton of stuff thru BMR today and He set me up with strange adjustable struts for the front and Gt500 strut upgrade to get the strange struts to work on my 2014. The question is do I still need caster camber plates? I'll be using the BMR springs on all 4 corners and the front only should have 1" of drop.
Lastly Which caster camber plates should I buy? ones for the 2011+ mustang or do i need the ones for the 2010 gt500 since those are the strut mounts i'll be using.. I'm so confused..
Imwas in the confused mode a couple of months ago so don't feel bad.

The length of the necked down portion of the struts changed. For 2011+ it is shorter (1.5"). 2005-10 was 3". Accordingly, the mounts are different.

I believe the GT 500 mount is a little beefier and made for the 5-10 struts. Therefore, your strange struts are the early (longer) style?

Lowering your car 1" changes the camber. Mine ended up at about 1.2deg negative which I was comfortable with for daily duty. Yours may vary.

I also wanted more negative camber for autocross and track duty so I bought camber plates. I tried the vorschlag but they don't offer a spring perch that fits stock style springs right, and they fumbled the strut fit so I ended up running back and forth to their shop several times. For $500 plus, I didn't feel like a "beat the spring with a BFH to fit" was appropriate. Vorschlag took them back, and I ended up buying the Maximum Motorsports camber plates for $300. They fitted and worked as advertised. Their offering includes the spacer bushings to handle either length strut. The MM plates have slotted caster settings so you can adjust. With the Vorschlag plates you have two holes to choose one caster setting or the other and the more aggressive caster may limit your camber adjustment unless you carve on the strut towers (illegal in SCCA for most classes).

With the plates, it's pretty nice to be able to easily have the mild daily driver setup (-1 deg) camber and then shift to -2.5 for events when I change tires. Doing so also makes the toe more positive for track so it turns in just a little better. I also have added more caster for both duties. Works for me.

Cheers
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