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**BERT** · 11-01-2013, 11:05 AM

I know the K springs are lower than the P springs but how much lower are the P's to the stockers? Being too low doesn't scare me really but I don't want it ghetto slammed like a had the coupe at one time. Hell, I drug a water bottle down the loop once and was trying to figure out what that noise was lol

Also, if I don't put LCA's on it right away, this won't hurt anything will it? I might do them all at the same time just trying to figure out how much I want to spend.

Sorry for what I am sure is a repost of a thousand times

**Grandpa** · 11-01-2013, 11:15 AM

Originally Posted by BERT

I know the K springs are lower than the P springs but how much lower are the P's to the stockers? Being too low doesn't scare me really but I don't want it ghetto slammed like a had the coupe at one time. Hell, I drug a water bottle down the loop once and was trying to figure out what that noise was lol

Also, if I don't put LCA's on it right away, this won't hurt anything will it? I might do them all at the same time just trying to figure out how much I want to spend.

Sorry for what I am sure is a repost of a thousand times

I've got my car lowered on Sportlines which is one of the more aggressive drops similar to the K springs. It's also on the stock lower control arms and it's fine. I've got no wheel hop with the drag radials. No clearance issues driving anywhere. I think the people who have issues are the ones who have one of those big snow plow type front splitters.

**JDBishopArts** · 11-01-2013, 11:16 AM

No big deal. What's what this site is for, to help people.

It's not technically going to hurt anything in the short term but it basically renders your LCA's useless. It will make your suspension worse.

I'd highly recommend not lowering your car till you get these things.

LCA's
LCA relocation brackets. (because the angle has to be corrected) These are more important than the LCA's themselves.
Adj Panhard. (when you drop the car the stock panhard is solid and will push the rear out of alignment)
CC plates or Camber bolts. (to correct front camber. Plates are better, bolts will do for short term)

Most people think a UCA is required but I feel that with the 2piece DS the pinion angle isn't that huge of an issue short term. It is def better and highly recommended long term. I plan on switching mine when I swap axles.

Also keep in mind a more aggressive spring is going to be harder on the shocks/struts. My stock ones lasted about 5k miles before one blew.

**Grandpa** · 11-01-2013, 11:27 AM

Which lowers would everyone recommend?

**BERT** · 11-01-2013, 11:40 AM

Originally Posted by JDBishopArts

No big deal. What's what this site is for, to help people.

It's not technically going to hurt anything in the short term but it basically renders your LCA's useless. It will make your suspension worse.

I'd highly recommend not lowering your car till you get these things.

LCA's
LCA relocation brackets. (because the angle has to be corrected) These are more important than the LCA's themselves.
Adj Panhard. (when you drop the car the stock panhard is solid and will push the rear out of alignment)
CC plates or Camber bolts. (to correct front camber. Plates are better, bolts will do for short term)

Most people think a UCA is required but I feel that with the 2piece DS the pinion angle isn't that huge of an issue short term. It is def better and highly recommended long term. I plan on switching mine when I swap axles.

Also keep in mind a more aggressive spring is going to be harder on the shocks/struts. My stock ones lasted about 5k miles before one blew.

That's the plan. I'm not going to lower it without having all the right parts. Except maybe the LCA's at first. Thought about going with the Koni Orange's because I really don't know when I would need to adjust my suspension at all. Without a track close by anymore (damn Hallsville closing down) it will probably only see street action. Now, if I can come across a good deal like 03MachMe posted up, i'll get adjustables obviously.

Here is what I was thinking:
BMR PHB
K or P springs
Koni orange or D-specs
camber bolts
strut mounts

later on BMR lca's and relocation bracket. But which BMR's should I go with? I don't see myself needing adjustables in this area either.

**BERT** · 11-01-2013, 11:41 AM

Originally Posted by SlowGreyGT

I've got my car lowered on Sportlines which is one of the more aggressive drops similar to the K springs. It's also on the stock lower control arms and it's fine. I've got no wheel hop with the drag radials. No clearance issues driving anywhere. I think the people who have issues are the ones who have one of those big snow plow type front splitters.

That's good to hear on the no scraping issue.

**Dominic Toretto** · 11-01-2013, 11:41 AM

I went with the P Springs for my drop. I didn't want anything too aggressive. I have not changed the control arms.

-Alex

**JDMLOL** · 11-01-2013, 11:51 AM

I am VERY happy with my set up for now, which is in my sig. Some increased NVH but it is much firmer. Even with my shitty rubber bands I have definitely noticed increased traction. The UCA is mainly for hop and pinion angle issues. I got it for peace of mind. When I had my pinion dialed in I was told it wasnt far off from the recommended angle, even on sportlines.

**JDBishopArts** · 11-01-2013, 11:52 AM

Yeah I didn't go with adj LCA's either. I have BMR pieces and am very happy with them. Quality is great. I like that they are grease-able too.

I'm on H&R race springs and I have to be careful in some areas but for the most part don't have any problems. No speed bump problems. Just have to go slow.