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Old 03-20-2013, 12:42 PM   #31
Phuck Phace
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Originally Posted by Yagermeister View Post
Longtubes and Driveshaft hopefully within a month and then a converter with around 4200 stall hopefully during the summer sometime. Have a friend who had gone 11.71 (just a hair slower than me with similar setup) and just installed a 5C (4200 stall) and went down to 11.15 instantly with a few more tweaks to the tune
When are you going to start pulling wheels off the ground?
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:10 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Phuck Phace View Post
When are you going to start pulling wheels off the ground?
According to the starter at Ennis, they got off the ground during the last trip. Here's a link to the video the starter took:

http://youtu.be/NL68d2J__6c
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:13 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Yagermeister View Post
According to the starter at Ennis, they got off the ground during the last trip. Here's a link to the video the starter took:

http://youtu.be/NL68d2J__6c
Needs more air, drag that bumper!!!
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:16 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Phuck Phace View Post
Needs more air, drag that bumper!!!
Once the converter goes in there will be much more air
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:43 AM   #35
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I just took everything out, I wanted to feel that nice old-school Caddilac ride, so that every time I hit a bump the car would launch a foot into the air and bounce for 10 days. No one rides on air like mine does!
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:20 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by merlinmol View Post
I just took everything out, I wanted to feel that nice old-school Caddilac ride, so that every time I hit a bump the car would launch a foot into the air and bounce for 10 days. No one rides on air like mine does!
I love me some old school land yachts.
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:03 PM   #37
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Default Post your Suspension mods

Ok so with some help from 03machme and midnight11 last friday we lowered my car. Mods are: FRPP K springs, Eibach pro kit springs/struts,Eibach camber bolts, BMR panhard bar, UPR Pro LCA's, Steeda adj UCA- not installed yet. A few cell phone pics...
ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21364349724.196120.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk 21364349741.431487.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk 21364349764.978908.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk 21364349798.080107.jpg
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Totaled:
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Steeda CAI/ VMP Tune/GT500 AB/JEGS CAT DELETES/
STEEDA UCA/LCA'S/ EIBACH PRO KIT STRUTS/ FRPP K SPRINGS/ BMR PANHARD BAR / Shelby Razors 20's

Last edited by PLASMAN; 03-26-2013 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:30 PM   #38
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Default Re: Post your Suspension mods

Mucho betterer
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:50 PM   #39
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Default Post your Suspension mods

Looks great!
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Old 04-17-2013, 03:02 PM   #40
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Default Post your Suspension mods

just got eibach sportline springs with the eibach bolts yesterday, ImageUploadedByTapatalk1366225332.134524.jpg I'll put better pics up later
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Old 11-28-2013, 12:05 AM   #41
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I see this is kind of an old thread, but I thought I'd contribute anyway.

FRPP- K springs, sway bars, adj. shocks/ struts, bump stops, adj. panhard bar, GT500 front lower control arms, FR500C rear lower control arms, Boss 302S rear lca relocation brackets, Boss 302S adj. tie rod ends/ bumpsteer kit, stock Bullitt strut tower brace

Shelby- caster/ camber plates, tubular radiator support, tubular k-member w/ 1/2" engine drop, k-member support plates, a-arm brace, subframe connectors, rear shock tower brace, adj. front sway bar end links, adj. poly rear upper control arm and bracket, panhard support, panhard relocation bracket.

Steeda- X5 balljoints

Prothane- front lca bushings

Eibach- camber bolts (not installed)

Caster is 6.9, camber is -1.7, toe is 0. Rear axle weights removed.

All aspects of the handling are better. The chassis is WAY stiff, and the car feels much more solid. Pretty much all of the interior creaks and rattles are gone. Cornering is way flatter than stock, and turn in is pretty quick. The steering feels smoother and more precise/ controlled. The car actually brakes better too, as the nose dive is drastically reduced. Wheel hop is completely gone, and although I'm set up for corner carving, she pulls hella hard from a dig. I catch a lot of higher hp cars off guard with that. The ride quality is much firmer than stock, but not harsh at all. She is louder and there's more vibration, but I also have cams and long tubes, so it's whatevers. This is my daily driver, and it's totally fine.

I still need to have the rear shock tower brace welded in, so it will actually do something besides look cool in my trunk. I'd also like to switch to a set of mono tube coilovers with much higher spring rates than the FRPP K's (228#/ 199.5#).
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Last edited by DevGittinJr; 11-28-2013 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 11-28-2013, 12:26 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by DevGittinJr View Post
I see this is kind of an old thread, but I thought I'd contribute anyway.

FRPP- K springs, sway bars, adj. shocks/ struts, bump stops, adj. panhard bar, GT500 front lower control arms, FR500C rear lower control arms, Boss 302S rear lca relocation brackets, Boss 302S adj. tie rod ends/ bumpsteer kit, stock Bullitt strut tower brace

Shelby- caster/ camber plates, tubular radiator support, tubular k-member w/ 1/2" engine drop, k-member support plates, a-arm brace, subframe connectors, rear shock tower brace, adj. front sway bar end links, adj. poly rear upper control arm and bracket, panhard support, panhard relocation bracket.

Steeda- X5 balljoints

Prothane- front lca bushings

Eibach- camber bolts (not installed)

Caster is 6.9, camber is -1.7, toe is 0. Rear axle weights removed.

All aspects of the handling are better. The chassis is WAY stiff, and the car feels much more solid. Pretty much all of the interior creaks and rattles are gone. Cornering is way flatter than stock, and turn in is pretty quick. The steering feels smoother and more precise/ controlled. The car actually brakes better too, as the nose dive is drastically reduced. Wheel hop is completely gone, and although I'm set up for corner carving, she pulls hella hard from a dig. I catch a lot of higher hp cars off guard with that. The ride quality is much firmer than stock, but not harsh at all. She is louder and there's more vibration, but I also have cams and long tubes, so it's whatevers. This is my daily driver, and it's totally fine.

I still need to have the rear shock tower brace welded in, so it will actually do something besides look cool in my trunk. I'd also like to switch to a set of mono tube coilovers with much higher spring rates than the FRPP K's (228#/ 199.5#).
I like the username. And that suspension setup sounds insane.
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:37 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by DirtyD View Post
I like the username. And that suspension setup sounds insane.
Thanks. Vaughn kills it in a 'Stang. I'm a fan.

It's is hella fun to drive now, and in corners it feels a lot smaller than it is.
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Old 12-03-2013, 10:43 AM   #44
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Man your Bullitt looks killer. Nice job.

My suspension mods are pretty weak right now. Installed are FRPP P-Springs. Stock shocks and struts. Like the comfort for now. Just received BMR rear LCAs and Relocation brackets yesterday. Will be getting them installed as soon as possible.

-Alex
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:29 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by Yagermeister View Post
Drag racing setup:
BMR LCA relo brackets (set in top hole)
I was told by Kelly at BMR for maximum traction, the bottom hole should be used. I did some research on my own as well and to me it makes sense that the bottom hole should be used to increase traction. Of course I don't have the extensive amount of mods you do so, just wondering why you are choosing the top hole?

-Alex
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