I'm starting to get my list together of all the things I need to get my cars shine the way I want it. I need to clay bar it and do some swirl removing. What are the best options in clay bars and swirl removers.
I've always had good luck with Meguiars clay bars. Very reasonably priced and they stay together well while still being tacky enough to get the job done.
Now do you just use it with water or do you buy the clay bar lubricant with it? I'm planning to go all out on getting the car polished up after the first of the year and want do it right.
Now do you just use it with water or do you buy the clay bar lubricant with it? I'm planning to go all out on getting the car polished up after the first of the year and want do it right.
Now do you just use it with water or do you buy the clay bar lubricant with it? I'm planning to go all out on getting the car polished up after the first of the year and want do it right.
Detail spray usually comes with the clay bars as a package. You can get the Meguairs kit right off the shelf at Wal-Mart, O'Reilly's etc. It works just as well as any expensive stuff you could get from AutoGeek. Just be sure to wash your car using Dawn dishwashing soap to strip any wax that may be still on the car. Spray the detail spray generously as you work the clay bar over the surface. Make sure you work the clay bar really well and pay attention to any contaminants you pick up off the surface onto the clay bar. Don't use the clay bar on the plastic molding around the car, metal only.
After that, you can continue on to whatever else you would like to do like the swirl remover, polish, wax etc.
Or, you can pay Nic to do it all for you if you want to be a slacker. Haha.
Detail spray usually comes with the clay bars as a package. You can get the Meguairs kit right off the shelf at Wal-Mart, O'Reilly's etc. It works just as well as any expensive stuff you could get from AutoGeek. Just be sure to wash your car using Dawn dishwashing soap to strip any wax that may be still on the car. Spray the detail spray generously as you work the clay bar over the surface. Make sure you work the clay bar really well and pay attention to any contaminants you pick up off the surface onto the clay bar. Don't use the clay bar on the plastic molding around the car, metal only.
After that, you can continue on to whatever else you would like to do like the swirl remover, polish, wax etc.
Or, you can pay Nic to do it all for you if you want to be a slacker. Haha.
It's not hard at all, just time consuming. You should do it today or tomorrow while it's going to be in the 70's. This weekend is going to be really cold and I doubt you will do it then unless your garage is heated.
If you were ever around anymore I'd be glad to show you how to do it.
It's not hard at all, just time consuming. You should do it today or tomorrow while it's going to be in the 70's. This weekend is going to be really cold and I doubt you will do it then unless your garage is heated.
If you were ever around anymore I'd be glad to show you how to do it.
My schedule has sucked lately. I work usually 50 hours a week, Angela works full time and goes to school at night. Luckily this is her last week for the semester. Sean was playing baseball 3 days a week, so my schedule has been crazy. Now I finally get a break in my schedule and the weather is going to be shitty, but that's usually my luck.
My schedule has sucked lately. I work usually 50 hours a week, Angela works full time and goes to school at night. Luckily this is her last week for the semester. Sean was playing baseball 3 days a week, so my schedule has been crazy. Now I finally get a break in my schedule and the weather is going to be shitty, but that's usually my luck.
That video still cracks me up. So maguires on the clay bar, anybody know of a good swirl remover or should I just use what they recommend on autogeek. What do you use for wax or a paint sealer. Going to go all out, well as all out as I get.
Megs kits from the shelf are fine to use for most paint conditions. That is what I used on my recent paint correction project (you can check out my thread). You can really get into the science of it by checking out what auto geek as to offer and the explanations behind each product.
The best way to feel if your car needs clay is to run the back of your fingers along the paint after a complete wash (dawn for best results). If you feel minor rises or "pips" in the paint it needs clay! Also if you are having a hard time feeling for that, grab a plastic sandwich bag, place your hand inside, and feel over the surface of your paint. The bag should magnify your contact patch with the paint to feel the deep contaminates.
Also, don't ever ever use water or a water/soap mix!
Why not water?
* Water does not provide any lubricating qualities.
* It might seem like it does at first but it dries rather quickly and you will find yourself working harder to remove the mess that water / clay produced.
* Because water doesn't provide any lubricating aspects it is VERY likely you will hit a dry spot and send the clay bar flying from the paint surface. If it hits the ground it is done! No mater how clean it might look that clay bar should never touch your paint again. If you put a clay bar back on the painted surface after it has touched the ground or a dirty surface you are asking for trouble by creating scratches.
* Water can also cause the clay bar to rub apart or deteriorate because it does not have any lubricating qualities to it. This could prove detrimental in your efforts and cause the clay bar to be very ineffective.
Why not a soap/water mix?
* The main reasoning behind this is because the soap will generate too slick of a surface generating a layer of soap to thicken between the paint and the clay bar, not allowing the clay to retain its abrasive qualities to remove defects, making it almost completely ineffective. It might feel like the clay bar is gliding smoothly but it is not doing its job by removing deep contaminates. Think of it as a car hydroplaning. It might feel like you are on the road until you go to make a turn or try to slow down and nothing is responding.
USE DETAIL SPRAY!
* This will provide the lubricating qualities as needed to perform an effective job while not over lubricating the clay to provide the lubrication needed to remove harsh contaminates.
Work section by section buffing off the detail spray as you go.
Once you are finished the paint should feel as smooth as glass! Proceed to feel the paint again with the back of your fingers or via a plastic bag again, and you will be thoroughly satisfied!
Megs kits from the shelf are fine to use for most paint conditions. That is what I used on my recent paint correction project (you can check out my thread). You can really get into the science of it by checking out what auto geek as to offer and the explanations behind each product.
The best way to feel if your car needs clay is to run the back of your fingers along the paint after a complete wash (dawn for best results). If you feel minor rises or "pips" in the paint it needs clay! Also if you are having a hard time feeling for that, grab a plastic sandwich bag, place your hand inside, and feel over the surface of your paint. The bag should magnify your contact patch with the paint to feel the deep contaminates.
Also, don't ever ever use water or a water/soap mix!
Why not water?
* Water does not provide any lubricating qualities.
* It might seem like it does at first but it dries rather quickly and you will find yourself working harder to remove the mess that water / clay produced.
* Because water doesn't provide any lubricating aspects it is VERY likely you will hit a dry spot and send the clay bar flying from the paint surface. If it hits the ground it is done! No mater how clean it might look that clay bar should never touch your paint again. If you put a clay bar back on the painted surface after it has touched the ground or a dirty surface you are asking for trouble by creating scratches.
* Water can also cause the clay bar to rub apart or deteriorate because it does not have any lubricating qualities to it. This could prove detrimental in your efforts and cause the clay bar to be very ineffective.
Why not a soap/water mix?
* The main reasoning behind this is because the soap will generate too slick of a surface generating a layer of soap to thicken between the paint and the clay bar, not allowing the clay to retain its abrasive qualities to remove defects, making it almost completely ineffective. It might feel like the clay bar is gliding smoothly but it is not doing its job by removing deep contaminates. Think of it as a car hydroplaning. It might feel like you are on the road until you go to make a turn or try to slow down and nothing is responding.
USE DETAIL SPRAY!
* This will provide the lubricating qualities as needed to perform an effective job while not over lubricating the clay to provide the lubrication needed to remove harsh contaminates.
Work section by section buffing off the detail spray as you go.
Once you are finished the paint should feel as smooth as glass! Proceed to feel the paint again with the back of your fingers or via a plastic bag again, and you will be thoroughly satisfied!
Then, you are ready for a deep polish!
So does the detail spray come with the clay bar pack or do you buy it separately?
Megs kits from the shelf are fine to use for most paint conditions. That is what I used on my recent paint correction project (you can check out my thread). You can really get into the science of it by checking out what auto geek as to offer and the explanations behind each product.
The best way to feel if your car needs clay is to run the back of your fingers along the paint after a complete wash (dawn for best results). If you feel minor rises or "pips" in the paint it needs clay! Also if you are having a hard time feeling for that, grab a plastic sandwich bag, place your hand inside, and feel over the surface of your paint. The bag should magnify your contact patch with the paint to feel the deep contaminates.
Also, don't ever ever use water or a water/soap mix!
Why not water?
* Water does not provide any lubricating qualities.
* It might seem like it does at first but it dries rather quickly and you will find yourself working harder to remove the mess that water / clay produced.
* Because water doesn't provide any lubricating aspects it is VERY likely you will hit a dry spot and send the clay bar flying from the paint surface. If it hits the ground it is done! No mater how clean it might look that clay bar should never touch your paint again. If you put a clay bar back on the painted surface after it has touched the ground or a dirty surface you are asking for trouble by creating scratches.
* Water can also cause the clay bar to rub apart or deteriorate because it does not have any lubricating qualities to it. This could prove detrimental in your efforts and cause the clay bar to be very ineffective.
Why not a soap/water mix?
* The main reasoning behind this is because the soap will generate too slick of a surface generating a layer of soap to thicken between the paint and the clay bar, not allowing the clay to retain its abrasive qualities to remove defects, making it almost completely ineffective. It might feel like the clay bar is gliding smoothly but it is not doing its job by removing deep contaminates. Think of it as a car hydroplaning. It might feel like you are on the road until you go to make a turn or try to slow down and nothing is responding.
USE DETAIL SPRAY!
* This will provide the lubricating qualities as needed to perform an effective job while not over lubricating the clay to provide the lubrication needed to remove harsh contaminates.
Work section by section buffing off the detail spray as you go.
Once you are finished the paint should feel as smooth as glass! Proceed to feel the paint again with the back of your fingers or via a plastic bag again, and you will be thoroughly satisfied!
Swirl Remover and clay bar
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