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Old 10-10-2012, 08:57 PM   #16
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Are you guys seeing any issues with the 02's with the longtubes on these Coyote motors?
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:50 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Steve View Post
Are you guys seeing any issues with the 02's with the longtubes on these Coyote motors?
To a degree.....yes. If there is anything in common, maintenance wise, is I get calls about O2 codes. Typically with replaced headers, yes. But also those without. But keep in mind, no cats will kill them especially fast by comparison.

If you decide to change your sensors out, make sure they are OEM straight from Ford (not Bosh etc.) Tuning has shown us that the aftermarket sensors heat up and cool down just differently enough than OEM to possibly throw codes.

Last edited by TrueStreetTim; 10-10-2012 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:50 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Courtesy Flush View Post
The pypes headers are what i wish i went with, even with all their bad rep with fitment and quality. Seen quite a few guys running em and making good power. Stepped header design 1 5/8ths stepped to 1 7/8th into a 3 inch collector.

Best of both worlds? could be.

Wouldn't know as i went with the 1 7/8th SW setup personally, very exotic sound with these headers when you creep into the top of the rpm band.
Pypes are complete and total junk! I have only successfully installed one set that actually fit without modification, and that was today on a 3v mustang. I have tried a set on almost every mustang out and not a single set was even close to fitting correctly.


1 7/8 is the only way to go on the new 5.0's. anything else will be leaving power on the table. With these new 5.0's they make so much power so efficently, that they need all the help getting the air out they can. I highly doubt that on the same day and same conditions if the 1 7/8 lose any hp or tq at any rpm to the 1 5/8. Keep in mind, even though they are only 302 ci, they move a tremendious amount of air!
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Old 10-10-2012, 11:10 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by TrueStreetTim View Post
To a degree.....yes. If there is anything in common, maintenance wise, is I get calls about O2 codes. Typically with replaced headers, yes. But also those without. But keep in mind, no cats will kill them especially fast by comparison.

If you decide to change your sensors out, make sure they are OEM straight from Ford (not Bosh etc.) Tuning has shown us that the aftermarket sensors heat up and cool down just differently enough than OEM to possibly throw codes.
Knowing it would leave some HP on the table, but do the stock cats overheat if the stock midpipe is left in place?
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:47 AM   #20
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I have longtube.
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:18 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Phuck Phace View Post
I have longtube.
In your ass
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Originally Posted by SlowGreyGT View Post
I agree. A stick car shocks the tires MUCH harder and does it several times going down the track. With a big power stick car, the car is much more unsettled going down the track making it more of a challenge to ET well. A well running auto car is nothing more than just point and shoot. Which is great for a track car taking a lot of driver error out of the equation.
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Old 10-11-2012, 11:09 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Steve View Post
Are you guys seeing any issues with the 02's with the longtubes on these Coyote motors?
Funny you ask, http://dfw50s.com/showthread.php?t=454

been a nightmare and $300 to get this mess fixed.

Originally Posted by TrueStreetTim View Post
To a degree.....yes. If there is anything in common, maintenance wise, is I get calls about O2 codes. Typically with replaced headers, yes. But also those without. But keep in mind, no cats will kill them especially fast by comparison.

If you decide to change your sensors out, make sure they are OEM straight from Ford (not Bosh etc.) Tuning has shown us that the aftermarket sensors heat up and cool down just differently enough than OEM to possibly throw codes.
see link above,

OEM parts have their fair share of problems too, as ive never seen a car with 7k miles(my own)throw an 02 so early with simlpe bolt ons. Given the conditions of my situation i understand the cause, but upon purchase of another OEM replacement 02, it was faulty.

From this experience ive began to think its not the absence of cats causing the problem, but the placement of the 02's with LT's being further downstream. My issue was post cat so regardless of if cats were installed, i doubt it would have changed the issue.

Some food for thought for those of you lowered with longtubes, How close is your front 02 bungs to the ground? Connector placement?

Now compare to stock placement and connections. May be a reason for that?

Also i wanted to mention, my 11 SG car had an O/R pipe and stock headers tune and bolted @ 800 miles, never had one issue with the front 02's in 20K miles.
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Old 10-11-2012, 11:15 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Steve View Post
Knowing it would leave some HP on the table, but do the stock cats overheat if the stock midpipe is left in place?
I like where your going with this.

Not so much the heat as it would also be the added pressure from a higher flowing header. Especially if the car is S/C'd....you'll blow it apart! And without a tune after your header swap, you'll 100% throw codes. The midpiping must be replaced, along with the cats (or none), with a header swap!

ARH is already manufacturing a shorty header for the new Camaro and promise to have the Mustang shorty available early next year. The design meets EPA and will not require a midpipe setup (or tune i believe) to bolt to the factory system. A cheaper option for folks. But if you get anything other.....don't try to use the factory piping & cat's.

Last edited by TrueStreetTim; 10-11-2012 at 11:22 AM.
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Old 10-11-2012, 11:27 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Courtesy Flush View Post
Funny you ask, http://dfw50s.com/showthread.php?t=454

been a nightmare and $300 to get this mess fixed.



see link above,

OEM parts have their fair share of problems too, as ive never seen a car with 7k miles(my own)throw an 02 so early with simlpe bolt ons. Given the conditions of my situation i understand the cause, but upon purchase of another OEM replacement 02, it was faulty.

From this experience ive began to think its not the absence of cats causing the problem, but the placement of the 02's with LT's being further downstream. My issue was post cat so regardless of if cats were installed, i doubt it would have changed the issue.

Some food for thought for those of you lowered with longtubes, How close is your front 02 bungs to the ground? Connector placement?

Now compare to stock placement and connections. May be a reason for that?

Also i wanted to mention, my 11 SG car had an O/R pipe and stock headers tune and bolted @ 800 miles, never had one issue with the front 02's in 20K miles.
I actually talked with my Ford guy this morning to get an O2 shipped. I asked if anything "funny" had been going on with O2's that he knew of. He said no. But then, for the first time, his system asked if the build date was (i think April 2010) or beyond. He said this was new. Perhaps something is developing and we just don't know what....yet.

From this experience ive began to think its not the absence of cats causing the problem, but the placement of the 02's with LT's being further downstream.
Placement is a factor.

Also i wanted to mention, my 11 SG car had an O/R pipe and stock headers tune and bolted @ 800 miles, never had one issue with the front 02's in 20K miles.
Same or different brand?




*Sorry...can't delete my double post.

Last edited by TrueStreetTim; 10-11-2012 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:16 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by TrueStreetTim View Post
I actually talked with my Ford guy this morning to get an O2 shipped. I asked if anything "funny" had been going on with O2's that he knew of. He said no. But then, for the first time, his system asked if the build date was (i think April 2010) or beyond. He said this was new. Perhaps something is developing and we just don't know what....yet.
Upon ordering i was told there was two 02 part #'s available under my vin #. Both specified as front 02's left and right. One was $120 other was close to $200.
Ill agree, something has developed.
I bought the $120 one it never worked. Took it to shop and they bought another $120 one and it worked. hmm

Originally Posted by TrueStreetTim View Post
Same or different brand?
Lethal O/R X on the 11 car

SW LT's and o/r X on the 12.
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:54 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by TrueStreetTim View Post
I like where your going with this.

Not so much the heat as it would also be the added pressure from a higher flowing header. Especially if the car is S/C'd....you'll blow it apart! And without a tune after your header swap, you'll 100% throw codes. The midpiping must be replaced, along with the cats (or none), with a header swap!
What about with the stock headers? Will the stock midpipe live a long happy life with a power adder? I'm asking, because I don't want this car to be obnoxiously loud. My little girl rides in this car often and I rather not she be deaf by the time she is five. lol

Last edited by Grandpa; 10-11-2012 at 01:05 PM.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:08 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Steve View Post
What about with the stock headers? Will the stock midpipe live a long happy life with a power adder? I'm asking, because I don't want this car to be obnoxiously loud. My little girl rides in this car often and I rather not she be deaf by the time she is five. lol
If you want it quiet just get the magnaflow street series mufflers, they are still quiet without cats.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:12 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Phuck Phace View Post
If you want it quiet just get the magnaflow street series mufflers, they are still quiet without cats.
Not a fan of Magnaflow at all. I had them on my Ferminator and hated the way the exhaust sounded.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:34 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Steve View Post
Not a fan of Magnaflow at all. I had them on my Ferminator and hated the way the exhaust sounded.
The 5.0s sound different with those then the cobras
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Originally Posted by SlowGreyGT View Post
I agree. A stick car shocks the tires MUCH harder and does it several times going down the track. With a big power stick car, the car is much more unsettled going down the track making it more of a challenge to ET well. A well running auto car is nothing more than just point and shoot. Which is great for a track car taking a lot of driver error out of the equation.
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:33 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Steve View Post
What about with the stock headers? Will the stock midpipe live a long happy life with a power adder? I'm asking, because I don't want this car to be obnoxiously loud. My little girl rides in this car often and I rather not she be deaf by the time she is five. lol
I see no reason why the midpipe itself would be an issue. It's the cats that need to be a high flow design with a power adder. Maybe look to an H-pipe with high flows into your soon-to-be GT500's perhaps? Or just high flows alone will suffice. Toby may have a better opinion on that.
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