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Old 11-25-2013, 05:03 PM   #16
DarkHorse1350
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Originally Posted by Dominic Toretto View Post
OP did your J&M panhard bar allow you to perfectly center your axle? I have the same item and my driver side is about 1/2inch out and the passenger side is about 1/2inch in. I plan to swap to a BMR part but for now, no one can tell.

-Alex
Yes, I was able to get it as close to centered as possible. When I installed the bar I fully seated both rod ends (screwed them in all the way, then I adjusted out from there, this will ensure that both ends are adjusted evenly and not one more that the other. Keep in mind that when you first install the bar this way your car will be all kinds of crooked, but as you adjust the bar a little at a time slowly but surely it will center itself.

I had to adjust measure, adjust measure, adjust measure several times until I was happy with the centering. Also use locktite on the jam nuts otherwise they can work themselves loose and you start all over.
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Old 11-25-2013, 05:29 PM   #17
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With the bar I have, it is adjusted fully to the center. No more room for adjustement lol and it is still slightly off. I was considering having an inch sawed off but, not really wanting to hack it up. PHBs are cheap so I'll end up buying a different one in the future. Maybe I got an old unit or something who knows?

-Alex
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:06 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Dominic Toretto View Post
With the bar I have, it is adjusted fully to the center. No more room for adjustement lol and it is still slightly off. I was considering having an inch sawed off but, not really wanting to hack it up. PHBs are cheap so I'll end up buying a different one in the future. Maybe I got an old unit or something who knows?

-Alex
Let me ask you how are you measuring the alignment, fender to wheel center? Fender to wheel/tire (wheel/tire bead) intersection?

I know it sounds weird but when I was using fender to wheel center measurement I would get it lined up perfectly from a measurement standpoint but visually the car was off center to the passenger side. When I used the fender to wheel tire intersection it lined up perfectly both visually and from a measurement standpoint.
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2013 Mustang GT, Deep Impact Blue, 6 speed, 3.73's, GT500 Axle Backs, JLT Oil Catch Can, Sound Tube Deleted, SR Lowering Springs, J&M Panhard Bar
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:01 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by DarkHorse1350 View Post
Let me ask you how are you measuring the alignment, fender to wheel center? Fender to wheel/tire (wheel/tire bead) intersection?

I know it sounds weird but when I was using fender to wheel center measurement I would get it lined up perfectly from a measurement standpoint but visually the car was off center to the passenger side. When I used the fender to wheel tire intersection it lined up perfectly both visually and from a measurement standpoint.
I just went by site lol. Bacadiesel and I could not get it adjusted perfectly and it took some time. I guess the best way to describe it is that once the car was lowered, the "center" shifted to the driver side. So no matter how the PHB was adjusted, the passenger side was always closer in than the driver's side and with the PHB completed screwed together, the driver's side would not go completely in the fender well.

-Alex
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:09 PM   #20
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Hey this guy taught me a little trick. Tape a string to your fender and let it hang down, maybe tie a bolt or something heavy at the end of the string to keep it from moving. And measure from string to wheel bead
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:23 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Bacadiesel View Post
Hey this guy taught me a little trick. Tape a string to your fender and let it hang down, maybe tie a bolt or something heavy at the end of the string to keep it from moving. And measure from string to wheel bead
At this point, I think it would work better by just using a sledgehammer on the driver's side wheel.

-Alex
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:21 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Dominic Toretto View Post
At this point, I think it would work better by just using a sledgehammer on the driver's side wheel.

-Alex
Alex are you close to the Irving area? If so I would be happy to help adjust as needed.

If your bar in completely compressed you are seeing the correct results, you need to "unscrew the bar to push the passenger side away from the axle center. By "screwing" the bar tighter you are actually pulling the passenger fender closer to axle center.
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:29 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by DarkHorse1350 View Post
Alex are you close to the Irving area? If so I would be happy to help adjust as needed.

If your bar in completely compressed you are seeing the correct results, you need to "unscrew the bar to push the passenger side away from the axle center. By "screwing" the bar tighter you are actually pulling the passenger fender closer to axle center.
I'm in Irving but, I do not have access to a lift or jack stands. It's not a big deal but, I don't mind showing you the car.

-Alex
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:37 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Dominic Toretto View Post
I'm in Irving but, I do not have access to a lift or jack stands. It's not a big deal but, I don't mind showing you the car.

-Alex
I have all the needed tools. If you want to try to get it lined up let me know Ill have some free time on Sunday.
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2007 Mustang GT Black with Gold Racing Stripes"Goldie", 5 Speed, 3.55 Gears, SVE Lowering Springs, JLT CAI, Roush Axle Backs, Bama Tuned! **SOLD**

2013 Mustang GT, Deep Impact Blue, 6 speed, 3.73's, GT500 Axle Backs, JLT Oil Catch Can, Sound Tube Deleted, SR Lowering Springs, J&M Panhard Bar
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:46 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by DarkHorse1350 View Post
I have all the needed tools. If you want to try to get it lined up let me know Ill have some free time on Sunday.
Thanks man, appreciate it. PM will be sent.

-Alex
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Old 01-25-2014, 12:34 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by maxpayne View Post
Reviving this thread.

OP - how are the SR Springs holding up?

Does anyone have an opinion on these springs? The drop is 1.5" front and back. They retail for $179.99. Here is the link.http://www.americanmuscle.com/sr-springs-0513gt.html

They seem like a good balance between cost and looks. I know the performance is definitely not the best; but, I have the opportunity to buy a brand new set that has never been used for super, super cheap (like $50). Also, my 5.0 is just a DD, and I don't require extreme performance at this juncture.

Thoughts?
I saw them on American Muscle a couple of months ago for $79 and couldn't pass them up. Ride quality is much improved. No roll. No squat. Makes the car look like is should instead of a 4X4 truck. Installed new Continental Extreme DW's and the car looks and feels 100% better.

My advice is to go ahead and use the money saved on this set and get a good panhard bar that has only one adjustment point. The cheap ones are a pain to adjust on the passenger side.
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Old 01-27-2014, 12:23 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by NAVAG View Post
I saw them on American Muscle a couple of months ago for $79 and couldn't pass them up. Ride quality is much improved. No roll. No squat. Makes the car look like is should instead of a 4X4 truck. Installed new Continental Extreme DW's and the car looks and feels 100% better.

My advice is to go ahead and use the money saved on this set and get a good panhard bar that has only one adjustment point. The cheap ones are a pain to adjust on the passenger side.
Agreed, the BMR bar is one that is super easy to dial in and adjust if needed. I have not heard anything bad about this bar either and I would go that route if I had to do it again.
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You must be fast cause you were haulin azz when I passed you!!

2007 Mustang GT Black with Gold Racing Stripes"Goldie", 5 Speed, 3.55 Gears, SVE Lowering Springs, JLT CAI, Roush Axle Backs, Bama Tuned! **SOLD**

2013 Mustang GT, Deep Impact Blue, 6 speed, 3.73's, GT500 Axle Backs, JLT Oil Catch Can, Sound Tube Deleted, SR Lowering Springs, J&M Panhard Bar
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