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**Dominic Toretto** · 11-01-2013, 09:28 AM

Looking for suggestions. if you all have any easier methods than using a wedge and heat gun. On my previous car, to remove the side moldings, which were attached to the car by double sided tape, I just soaked the glue with Goo Gone and used fishing line to "saw" it off. Of course that car was made out of plastic so not sure it will be safe for this car.

-Alex

**DirtyD** · 11-01-2013, 09:55 AM

Are you talking about the faux gas cap? There is actually a hump in the trunk that it fits over. It's has pins/pegs that insert into the hump, and those typically brake. If you want to completely smooth it down, you have to break out the Dremel and a metal cutting wheel.

**Dominic Toretto** · 11-01-2013, 10:07 AM

Originally Posted by DirtyD

Are you talking about the faux gas cap? There is actually a hump in the trunk that it fits over. It's has pins/pegs that insert into the hump, and those typically brake. If you want to completely smooth it down, you have to break out the Dremel and a metal cutting wheel.

Yes, the faux gas cap, I don't plan to reuse it. I bought the CDC rear decklid panel.

-Alex

**DirtyD** · 11-01-2013, 10:08 AM

Yeah, you need to cut the cap off.

Get with JDBishoparts. He cut his off and may be able to give you some pointers.

**JDBishopArts** · 11-01-2013, 10:34 AM

If you bought the blackout panel then you have some serious modifications to do. That's one of the reasons I bought the one I did. You don't have to cut it off.

The plastic part you don't have to do anything with. It's all one piece. You have to take two screws out and pop the panel off. I'd take the interior liner out too. If you were like me and knew you weren't going to use it again I was a little rough and ended up breaking off a couple of the tabs and had to fish them out of the trunk.

If you have the one were you have to cut the metal part off the back Id recommend a dremel and a hole saw. Then make sure you prep the exposed metal and paint it or you'll get rust...and quickly.

**Dominic Toretto** · 11-01-2013, 11:11 AM

http://www.americanmuscle.com/cdc-rear-panel-2010.html

That's the panel I bought.

Here's the instructions on the site.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/cdc-de...0-install.html

I don't see anything that looks to require any cutting or sawing. Perhaps it's different on the 13+ cars?

-Alex

re-rx7 · 11-02-2013, 10:58 AM

Its a PIA from what Ive heard.

**JDBishopArts** · 11-02-2013, 12:42 PM

Yes it's different than the black out panel that I was talking about and it's different than the 12's. It's all connected on the plastic panel. You just have to pop it off. 100x easier than the 12s.

**fordplay** · 11-04-2013, 08:45 AM

Ummm if its what I'm thinking .. I pulled the one off my 11 in like 10 minutes on a 100 degree day. Its double sided tape and 2 push pins . Zero tools but maybe use dental floss? After seeing how they are held on.. I'm surprised they don't just fall off more

**Dominic Toretto** · 11-04-2013, 11:02 AM

Originally Posted by fordplay

Ummm if its what I'm thinking .. I pulled the one off my 11 in like 10 minutes on a 100 degree day. Its double sided tape and 2 push pins . Zero tools but maybe use dental floss? After seeing how they are held on.. I'm surprised they don't just fall off more

Yeah same thing, I have a 12. It's a bit cooler outside now, so I haven't done it because the instructions say to install the panel at a temp warmer than 70*. I'm assuming the panel will not adhere as it is supposed to in cool weather.

-Alex

**fordplay** · 11-05-2013, 08:52 AM

There are holes in the metal where two pins go in and are held in place by 2 plastic gripper friction nuts.. that's what mostly holds them on, the tape.. ehhh.. that being said.. it is plastic and does flex a lot on install and removal, waiting till its warm is most likely the better idea