Calling out the built/nitrous stang

[Bearded Banger]

Originally Posted by BLK2012GT And also that's bullshit cause you're number one on the power adder list.

You can have the spot

[Junkie]

Originally Posted by BLK2012GT Not using the nitrous at the track till I get some slicks. But I have used it on the road a few times but anything under 60 it just melts the tires.

Why not buy a set of good radials or tires? Will a 15" wheel fit on the car?

[DirtyD]

Originally Posted by Junkie Why not buy a set of good radials or tires? Will a 15" wheel fit on the car?

These cars work best with slicks at the track, especially at his power level. DRs won't do enough for him.

[GunsUp]

Originally Posted by DirtyD These cars work best with slicks at the track, especially at his power level. DRs won't do enough for him.

All cars work better with slicks at the track...

[DirtyD]

Originally Posted by GunsUp All cars work better with slicks at the track...

Obviously. I'm speaking for stick cars. Didn't exactly mean 5.0s.

Depending on the power level. IIRC, wbt broke the rear end in one of his cars doing a hard launch in an auto at the track, on slicks. You need to beef the hell out of everything in the driveline to do slicks on an auto in order to do a full hard hit at higher power levels.

[Grandpa]

Originally Posted by DirtyD These cars work best with slicks at the track, especially at his power level. DRs won't do enough for him.

You realize that statement is complete nonsense, right?

[DirtyD]

Originally Posted by SlowGreyGT You realize that statement is complete nonsense, right?

See above.

Every here has said he needs slicks to get full potential at the track because the DRs aren't working.

[Grandpa]

Originally Posted by DirtyD These cars work best with slicks at the track, especially at his power level. DRs won't do enough for him.

Originally Posted by DirtyD See above. Every here has said he needs slicks to get full potential at the track because the DRs aren't working.

The DR's aren't working because of the tires. It's user error and not getting the suspension dialed in properly yet.

There is a whole class of cars (275 class) that manage to put well over 1100hp to the tires on a 275 radial dipping into the high 4 second 1/8th mile times.

Slicks are NOT needed to go fast. I've said it a million times, it's about a proper set up.

[BLK2012GT]

Originally Posted by SlowGreyGT The DR's aren't working because of the tires. It's user error and not getting the suspension dialed in properly yet. There is a whole class of cars (275 class) that manage to put well over 1100hp to the tires on a 275 radial dipping into the high 4 second 1/8th mile times. Slicks are NOT needed to go fast. I've said it a million times, it's about a proper set up.

Those guys in the 275 class are driving manuals at that power level? I can probably cut 1.7-1.9 with better shocks and struts with DR but with slicks I can cut 1.3-1.5 which is a big difference.

[DirtyD]

Originally Posted by SlowGreyGT The DR's aren't working because of the tires. It's user error and not getting the suspension dialed in properly yet. There is a whole class of cars (275 class) that manage to put well over 1100hp to the tires on a 275 radial dipping into the high 4 second 1/8th mile times. Slicks are NOT needed to go fast. I've said it a million times, it's about a proper set up.

You act like I don't know this, and I've never heard of the 275 class. Lord. Unless you have the resources and want to install a fully track capable suspension on the car, slicks are the easier route to go. Jeff wants his car to be both street and strip, street majority. Using slicks at the track would eliminate a lot of the suspension hassle from the equation to give him a quick, effective solution to hooking at the track. His car is not a purpose built race car that he wants to run 8s in every weekend. Therefore doing a full suspension for him outside of shocks/struts and springs would be a waste of money on his end.

There are many routes you can go for a "proper" setup.