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Old 05-14-2013, 01:26 AM   #46
Emwun Garand
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There's nothing wrong with Motorcraft oil, but if you want a full synthetic, you have to switch brands.
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:29 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by Emwun Garand View Post
There's nothing wrong with Motorcraft oil, but if you want a full synthetic, you have to switch brands.
Yup.
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:44 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by re-rx7 View Post
You really need to research motor oil....Just for shits. What makes motorcraft bad?
From what I've read it breaks down much faster. I am by no means an oil guru, I have been trying to read up on different oils from different sources to gain some unbiased knowledge on it. So far I've found that for daily duty on a typical car all oils will protect as they should, but when it comes to racing and really putting strain on the parts a better oil will protect better and longer. For those that plan on getting rid of their cars before 100k I'm sure there isn't much personal benefit. I plan on running the dog shit out of mine and eventually when the time comes that I get a built motor, this one will hopefully be put into a foxbody and continue to run efficiently as it should.
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:02 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by Luke View Post
From what I've read it breaks down much faster. I am by no means an oil guru, I have been trying to read up on different oils from different sources to gain some unbiased knowledge on it. So far I've found that for daily duty on a typical car all oils will protect as they should, but when it comes to racing and really putting strain on the parts a better oil will protect better and longer. For those that plan on getting rid of their cars before 100k I'm sure there isn't much personal benefit. I plan on running the dog shit out of mine and eventually when the time comes that I get a built motor, this one will hopefully be put into a foxbody and continue to run efficiently as it should.
Most oils when broke dwn get thicker. This is what kills a motor. 10PSI PER 1000RPM is a gd rule of thumb. When racing Id change oil every 1-2k miles or when your done as the street oil will lubricate better then the race oil on the daily trips.
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:21 AM   #50
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Pennzoil Ultra if you can find it is really good for about 60 on 10 quarts. Amsoil did a oil comparison in feb this year and while PU wasn't the best it was in the top performers. Oddly enough M1 extended performance didnt fare as well as I thought it would have and I've been using it (or similar full synthetic m1) for the last 10 years!

http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests.aspx
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:27 AM   #51
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I've heard about Pennzoil Ultra being really good, it had slipped my mind, I've always heard terrible things about Pennzoil, but that was years ago.

And thanks for the link, you gave me something to do at work!
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:27 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by re-rx7 View Post
So you can break down your synthetic oil in 3k miles? Its your car but your wasting money.
I don't know if break down or contaminate is the correct word, but HPP says for those of us running E85 (especially since its more like E90 around here) should continue to change our oil at 3k miles. Even on E85, I went 5k this last time with no issues.

That said, my oil change was free at Grapevine Ford yesterday. They have a sign up that says they have to do a vehicle walk-around inspection and pop the hood with you present or your oil change is free. The guy got sidetracked looking at my tires that need to be replaced that he didn't pop the hood. Otherwise, it'd have been $60.
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:30 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by faztcobra View Post
I don't know if break down or contaminate is the correct word, but HPP says for those of us running E85 (especially since its more like E90 around here) should continue to change our oil at 3k miles. Even on E85, I went 5k this last time with no issues.

That said, my oil change was free at Grapevine Ford yesterday. They have a sign up that says they have to do a vehicle walk-around inspection and pop the hood with you present or your oil change is free. The guy got sidetracked looking at my tires that need to be replaced that he didn't pop the hood. Otherwise, it'd have been $60.
Haha, pretty cool that you got it for free, I probably wouldn't use that service advisor again though, he probably won't be too helpful, lol. I wonder if that came out of his check, do you recall the guy's name? My wife is actually there right now, they asked her why she brought her own oil and if something was wrong with the car.
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:23 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Luke View Post
Haha, pretty cool that you got it for free, I probably wouldn't use that service advisor again though, he probably won't be too helpful, lol. I wonder if that came out of his check, do you recall the guy's name? My wife is actually there right now, they asked her why she brought her own oil and if something was wrong with the car.
McBride was the last name. Don't remember the first, maybe Todd???
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:10 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by Luke View Post
Post up the results if you don't mind, Amsoil is what's going in next and I'd like to have more results to compare too.
Will do!
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:35 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by faztcobra View Post
I don't know if break down or contaminate is the correct word, but HPP says for those of us running E85 (especially since its more like E90 around here) should continue to change our oil at 3k miles. Even on E85, I went 5k this last time with no issues.

That said, my oil change was free at Grapevine Ford yesterday. They have a sign up that says they have to do a vehicle walk-around inspection and pop the hood with you present or your oil change is free. The guy got sidetracked looking at my tires that need to be replaced that he didn't pop the hood. Otherwise, it'd have been $60.
With e85 yes I'd agree. It attracts moisture like a sponge.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:40 PM   #57
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You couldn't pay me to run pennsoil. We just got through fixing a gto that had been run on pennsoil it's whole life. All the lifters are trashed, had a bent and broken pushrod, and when we pulled the valve cover was pulled there was an huge amount of sludge. We asked the customer and he said that the oil was changed regularly with pennsoil. It definitely shows...
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Old 05-15-2013, 05:17 PM   #58
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That series of pennzoil? Conventional is shit due to the PA oil quality they have up there. Their synthetic is a different beast.
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:56 AM   #59
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Omg. Pennzoil this Castro that. Pennzoil actually makes some of the best synthetic oil on the market. Standard on all Ferraris. Has a thin viscosity at start up and gd modifiers. I'm guessing you just took the customers word? I'm saying this...there is nothing wrong with pennzoil. Almost all synthetics are the same. In the 20 grade pennzoil may actually be one of te best.

Last edited by re-rx7; 05-16-2013 at 01:59 AM.
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:55 AM   #60
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The car itself looked to be well taken care of. This is not the first time I have seen these results when pennsoil was regularly run in a vehicle. I have worked in a mechanics shop for over 10 years now. I have seen cars come in that the oil was never changed in, ones that have 150k with regular service using conventional and synthetic. In my experience, pennsoil is pure junk, I would rather put used 10k mile oil in my car over pennsoil. Just is speaking from personal experience with what I have seen and dealt with in person, not what I read on some forum or blog on the Internet or what I saw in a magazine article.
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