Axle Brace

[BlueBolt]

What's everyone's opinion on these? Needed? Any issues with then street driving? Any others out there besides CHE?

I'm trying to slowly get my car together for some weekend warrior duty then one day throw some boost at it. (I've always been one to get bunch of precautionary mods done before I push it at the track). After I get a new UCA (whiteline issue) I'm going to move to LCA, relocation brackets, sway bar relocation, and possibly an axle brace. I'd like to get these all together before I do any of it that way I can have the axle tubes welded and the relocation brackets welded all at the same time. Goal is to get the power down and not have to worry about breaking the rearend.

[wbt]

Originally Posted by BlueBolt What's everyone's opinion on these? Needed? Any issues with then street driving? Any others out there besides CHE? I'm trying to slowly get my car together for some weekend warrior duty then one day throw some boost at it. (I've always been one to get bunch of precautionary mods done before I push it at the track). After I get a new UCA (whiteline issue) I'm going to move to LCA, relocation brackets, sway bar relocation, and possibly an axle brace. I'd like to get these all together before I do any of it that way I can have the axle tubes welded and the relocation brackets welded all at the same time. Goal is to get the power down and not have to worry about breaking the rearend.

I used the CHE brace on my 2011 M6 5.0. The make it where it fits a LPW or TA style rear differential cover and mates up perfectly with all the CHE lower control arm relo brackets. It works. When I broke my axle the internals of the rear survived. It helps to keep the axle flexing forward putting stress on the spider gears and differential bearings. To get it all setup properly the following parts are recommended:

http://www.cheperformance.com/prod-258.htm
http://www.cheperformance.com/prod-209.htm


To this day I use all CHE control arms and mounts on my 2012. I sold the axle tube brace as the auto doesn't hit the tires like a manual.

[BlueBolt]

Thanks wbt. Is there any clearance issues? I'm pretty low on sportlines right now but might eventually go to a better drag race spring down the road sometime.

[BlueBolt]

Wbt since you're in here I got another question for you (and anyone else who has experience). For a M6 drag radial or full slick easier on the car? I've always heard DR is easier on the car but have seen some people say otherwise. I'm new to drag racing manuals. Came from a Lightning where I really didn't have to worry about the rear breaking

[wbt]

Originally Posted by BlueBolt Thanks wbt. Is there any clearance issues? I'm pretty low on sportlines right now but might eventually go to a better drag race spring down the road sometime.

You will lose an inch or so of ground clearance with the brace in the rear.

Originally Posted by BlueBolt Wbt since you're in here I got another question for you (and anyone else who has experience). For a M6 drag radial or full slick easier on the car? I've always heard DR is easier on the car but have seen some people say otherwise. I'm new to drag racing manuals. Came from a Lightning where I really didn't have to worry about the rear breaking

For a manual trans car you want a bias ply slick. They absorb the driveline shock much better than a drag radial therefore reducing the stress on parts. They also recover from spinning better where as a drag radial doesn't recover well if it starts to spin.

Hoosier Quick Time Pro would be a good choice of tire for your application.

[DirtyD]

steel belts ≠ flex

you want flex in the tires so the stress gradient in the driveline is more gradual than quick snaps, which is what breaks stuff.

[BlueBolt]

Thanks guys