I honestly cannot say I have even ever heard of someone buying one. The kits advertise efficiency so I really cannot say how well they actually do. The Eddlebrock SEMA car however did make like 495 to the wheels, on the boxed tune the kit comes with. Which is about the same level of power most all of these kits make. Most people obviously get custom tunes or pulley down for more power.

Honestly, I'd love a C6 Z06, my father had one, but it's honestly not a very practical DD.
I would do 32 or even 33, but yeah, 36.5 just seems like a little much to spend on a used mustang gt, even though he does have a decent amount of money sunk into it.
Hey man, what's up. Your's is still at the top of my list for sure. It's a beast and very well done.


With all the cars I've looked at recently, I've just been taking my time as to not make a rash decision.

Things are good, just had a couple days inport. that's why im in and out of the forums lol.

this thread. wow. :okay2:

You guys with blowers, are you building the bottom end or just slapping on a blower, boosting the hell out of it and calling it a day?

-Alex

I don't think anybody on here is building a bottom end until it lets go. At least not that I can tell.

Hmmmm... wouldn't it be cheaper to build it right the first time?

-Alex

I don't plan on upping the boost in my car anytime soon. I am keeping it fairly tame since this car sees more daily driving and road course duty than time at the strip. If I ever get the wild hair to go faster, I will probably build the bottom end/internals.

Depends on how long the bottom end lasts lol

I didn't read the whole thread, how soon does boost come on in the rpm range and how much boost is it tuned for currently?

From what I understand the stock crank is already the same forged one in the Boss 302. Not sure about the connecting rods and pistons but I doubt Ford would use Forged pistons and rods on such a highly produced car.

-Alex

Been told the rods are the weak point in the GT's

Ive heard the piston ring landings are weak as well.

I heard the driver is the weak link on the new 5.0s...especially in the group

With a good tune most people are keeping the stock block together up to the 650HP mark. Past that it seems to be just a matter of time.

It's all a shot in the dark. I just tore apart a 100% bone stock 5.0 engine no intake, exhaust etc and it has broken ring lands on 5 pistons!! Cylinders 2, and 5-8 all are broken.

To answer the question about boss vs gt, the cranks are exactly the same save for the balance job. The pistons are a mahle brand forging and the rods are an, IMO, weaker then stock gt, very thin rod. Also there seems to be assumptions that the boss rods and pistons are lighter, when in fact they are heavier then the gt stuff. I will tank pics and give weights tomorrow when I get back to the shop but IMO I would say the gt stuff may be stronger.

<620 rwhp you should be fine unless the ringlands fail. More then that you are just on borrowed time IMO. Another major weaklink is the block for you crazy hp guys. The sleeves are extremely thin, I would not recommend more then 850 rwhp on a stock block. More then that an you are just on borrowed time.

At this point I have built about 15 of these coyote engines with 4 in the shop now waiting to get done. I have pretty much seen every different failure and each time it's either number 8 failure a ringland fails or just too much damn power for a stock short block at 700+.

Take it for what it's worth, this is just my own hands on experience with these engines.

Now to answer the op, personally I am a little bias to procharger. I have installed every brand except vortech and hands down the procharger is the easiest and simplest kit to install. It requires very little to no modification to the vehicle with everything being reversible and not having to cut every piece of plastic under the good like some of the other brands. The kb kits are also very nice but come at a price.

I personally am considering a procharger for my ls swapped c10. Hehe